[NHCOLL-L:5372] RE: moths and taxidermy mounts

Tue Apr 12 13:52:19 EDT 2011

James mentions in passing understanding the habits of the pest - webbing
clothing moths are not particularly good fliers, they prefer to walk or
fly fairly low. Place your monitor traps accordingly (sticky monitors,
pheremones and light traps) accordingly - at heights that the pest is
likely to inhabit.  And remember that monitors are just that - they will
help you determine the extent of your infestation and maybe location.
Read about the life cycle and the habits of your pest (here the clothing
moth) - and look to your procedures. 

Good luck

Gretchen 

________________________________

From: owner-nhcoll-l at lists.yale.edu
[mailto:owner-nhcoll-l at lists.yale.edu] On Behalf Of Bryant, James
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 12:58 PM
To: rwhite at thewildlifemuseum.org; 'NHCOLL-L at lists.yale.edu'
Subject: [NHCOLL-L:5370] RE: moths and taxidermy mounts

A footnote and further comment: If there is a concern about using
pheromone lures in trap monitoring for clothes moths, many types of
sticky traps will do a good job of monitoring for these species -
especially webbing clothes moths - as long as the traps provide narrow,
somewhat enclosed spaces. The moths seek out crack and crevices in which
to hide, and seem more inclined to walk than fly. This might mean that
simple barriers (such as sticky thresholds between storage and work
areas) could also help prevent movement of moths through a facility...as
long as infested materials are not carried through the facility. Be
aware the moths will hitch rides on employees clothing!

Gretchen's point is extremely important: a moth infestation (or almost
any pest infestation) is a reflection of unaddressed structural and
procedural issues. Attempts to exterminate the pests in the specimen
will be fruitless if these other matters are left alone.

James M. Bryant

Curator of Natural History

Museum Department, City of Riverside

3580 Mission Inn Avenue

Riverside, CA 92501

(951) 826-5273

(951) 369-4970 FAX

jbryant at riversideca.gov

From: owner-nhcoll-l at lists.yale.edu
[mailto:owner-nhcoll-l at lists.yale.edu] On Behalf Of White, Rich
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2011 9:57 AM
To: 'NHCOLL-L at lists.yale.edu'
Subject: [NHCOLL-L:5367] FW: RE: moths and taxidermy mounts

From: White, Rich 
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2011 9:05 AM
To: 'AndersonG at CarnegieMNH.org'
Subject: RE: [NHCOLL-L:5366] RE: moths and taxidermy mounts

Let me emphasize what Gretchen said.  Killing the moths once a specimen
is infected is just treating the symptoms - necessary for the survival
of that specimen, but doesn't do anything to prevent future
infestations.  How are the moths getting in to your museum/collection
area?  We had a similar infestation - an ostrich was completely denuded
over a long weekend.  We found that a service door nearby was getting
propped open during the day, allowing the moths to fly right in as
though we'd lit a neon sign saying "Free Meals!".  We keep the door
closed at all times other than when someone is actually ingressing or
egressing, and we installed a bug light/trap between the door and the
exhibits.  That has worked very well - no further infestations.

Richard S. White, Director

International Wildlife Museum

4800 West Gates Pass Road

Tucson, AZ 85745

Phone: 520-629-0100 ext 252

Fax:       520-618-3561

From: owner-nhcoll-l at lists.yale.edu
[mailto:owner-nhcoll-l at lists.yale.edu] On Behalf Of Anderson, Gretchen
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2011 8:09 PM
To: signa at rmltrust.com; NHCOLL-L at lists.yale.edu
Subject: [NHCOLL-L:5366] RE: moths and taxidermy mounts

Anoxic is a valid way to kill an active outbreak, but needs to be used
in conjuction with an overall IPM plan. Without a thorough clean-up of
space and specimens, location of the source and on going monitoring
expect another outbreak. This is true for any kill method.

Monitoring using blunder/sticky traps with or without pheremon liures is
the way we find out about the infestation (location, extent, type) not
the way to kill it. Thermal treatments and anoxic - including Ageless do
the killing.

Gretchen Anderson
Conservator
Carnegie Museum of Natural History
See Musempest.net for specifics 

From: signa [mailto:signa at rmltrust.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2011 05:13 PM
To: NHCOLL-L at lists.yale.edu <NHCOLL-L at lists.yale.edu> 
Subject: [NHCOLL-L:5364] RE: moths and taxidermy mounts 

How about suffocation of the bugs?

We [was the helper to a hired conservator to survey and recommend and
treat collection items (ongoing!)] had an argali (full-mount), skin drum
and writing desk (large) which we sealed in Marvelseal (each item
separately, in situ, using iron tongs), then tossed in Mitsubishi
ZPT-2000 Ageless (the necessary computed amount for the enclosure
volume, and the specific amount of time to kill off larvae and any other
next generation -- think was 2 or 3 weeks; making a window for the
Ageless eye).
The enclosure/ageless does get hot initially as oxygen is absorbed, so
the packets were kept away from direct contact with sensitive
objects/areas.
It has worked fine for us.

I hear tell lures might not be the best things in traps as they actually
"lure" from quite a distance something that might not necessarily have
been there before???

Signa Pendegraft, RPA   
Robert M. Lee Trust
Archives
970 Icehouse Ave.
Sparks, NV 89431
PH: (775)331-7600
Fax:(775)331-3412

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-nhcoll-l at lists.yale.edu on behalf of Jean Woods
Sent: Wed 4/6/2011 12:11 PM
To: james_ladonski at yahoo.com; NHCOLL-L at lists.yale.edu
Subject: [NHCOLL-L:5363] RE: moths and taxidermy mounts

Hi,

Keeping moths out of a taxidermy collection can be a big challenge.
Infested items should be freeze treated to -20C, which typically takes a
chest freezer.  Do not use a frost free freezer.  We use a cycle of in
the freezer for 1 week, out at room temperature for 24 hours, and back
in for 1 week.  You want to warm/cool the material as quickly as
possible to maximize the stress on the moth larvae/eggs and cause them
to die.  So don't put a large amount of material in the freezer all at
once because it will take too long to cool.  Bag items to avoid
condensation. 

In addition to treating infested items you also need to get the storage
area de-infested- this sounds like it might be the problem.  Thorough
cleaning is a good start (and I'm sure you have done this) and remove
any materials that the moths might get into (fabric, cardboard, etc.).
Seal wood shelves with varnish or paint if possible (low VOC
preferably).  Because of their small size moths can easily get into
cracks and crevices so unless you rid the storage area of them the
collection will just get re-infested.  We have used a product called
CB-80 Extra, which is a Pyrethrum spray to "bomb" storage cabinets
(ideally with all contents removed).  Since it is a plant based product
it is not as nasty as some insecticides but still not risk free.  It
leaves minimal residue.  You should be able to find information about it
online.  Don't use mothballs. 

I'd suggest you clear the storage area, bagging all items as they are
removed.  Strip the storage area to the walls and clean thoroughly.
Bomb the room with CB-80 Extra.  Freeze treat anything that goes back in
including shelves, brackets, boxes, etc.  Freeze treat all the taxidermy
before returning it to the room.  Seal the room better and get pheromone
traps (see next).  A lot of work but it sounds like this is a
well-entrenched infestation. 

Insects Unlimited sells a pheromone trap for clothing moths, which is
probably what is infesting your taxidermy.  Moths are fairly weak
fliers, so hang the traps low.  Before buying pheromone traps you might
try to get the moths identified- they might also be case making moths,
which is a different pheromone.  I think Insects Unlimited might have
info on their web site.

To prevent re-infestation store items in a room with limited access to
the outdoors and keep windows closed.  I think both of the possible moth
species occur naturally in much of the US, so there is an ever-present
risk of re-infestation.  Examine storage cabinets/rooms and add
weather-stripping or caulking to make them insect-proof.  Limit the time
that items are out of the storage area if possible.  To the extent
possible store taxidermy and especially study skins in plastic bags or
boxes to keep moths out and contain new infestations.  Regularly inspect
the collection to detect new infestations. 

Establish protocols for treating items that have been out of the nature
center or new acquisitions so that they don't bring in problems.  You
can quarantine these items for a period of time (6 months) to check for
infestation.  We generally freeze-treat anything newly acquired no
matter if it is professionally done or old.  If items have been to a
high risk situation (e.g. an outdoor festival in the summer) it might be
better to just freeze treat them when they come back.

I hope this helps!  Feel free to contact me offline if there are other
questions.  Jean

Dr. Jean L. Woods                               Phone: 302-658-9111 x314

Curator of Birds                                        Fax:
302-658-2610

Delaware Museum of Natural History              e-mail:
jwoods at delmnh.org

4840 Kennett Pike, P.O. Box 3937                web: www.delmnh.org

Wilmington, DE  19807

________________________________

From: owner-nhcoll-l at lists.yale.edu
[mailto:owner-nhcoll-l at lists.yale.edu] On Behalf Of James Ladonski
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 1:24 PM
To: NHCOLL-L at lists.yale.edu
Subject: [NHCOLL-L:5358] moths and taxidermy mounts

Hello,

A colleague of mine at a nature center is dealing with moths getting
into their taxidermy mounts and study skins.  I do not have much
experience with this issue, but was hoping someone on here could offer
them some advice.  If you have suggestions or questions, please contact
Michaele off-list at mklingerman at sjcparks.org

I was given the following information:

"One of the nature centers has a problem with moths destroying their
taxidermy mounts. They have tried everything, from freezing the mounts,
fumigating and attempting to pick off the eggs. It seems the moths have
even gotten to specimens that were done professionally. I would have to
see them to be able to tell if they had been tanned properly. Do you
have any suggestions as to how to rid themselves of the insects?

We have the mounts and study skins (really, mostly study skins) stored
in a closet in our auditorium where we conduct our programs. We do have
mounts throughout the building and in the auditorium; although nothing
"new". The bear rug is in the closet with the other skins. I mentioned
that one only because that was where the first moth was seen. As soon as
we saw that moth we began searching and discovered that all of our items
in that closet had been infested."

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer!

James Ladonski

Department of Biology and Microbiology

South Dakota State University

4801 N Career Avenue

Sioux Falls, SD  57107

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