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<p>Dear all</p>
<p>I have had very good experiences with Terostat - especially for glasses with a somewhat uneven jar top.<br>It is easy to process, closes reliably and can be opened again quickly.</p>
<p>It will also offered by a Swiss company for taxidermy supplies.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.taxidermy.ch/en/f078000031.html?article_id=78004741">https://www.taxidermy.ch/en/f078000031.html?article_id=78004741</a></p>
<p>Originally it comes from the car and caravan industry. I'm sure there's something like that in the United States as well</p>
<p>Good luck<br>Joachim</p>
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<div><span style="color: #949494; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Joachim Haendel</span></div>
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<p><span style="color: #949494; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Center of Natural History Collections<br>of the Martin Luther University (ZNS)<br>- Entomological Collection -<br><br>Domplatz 4<br>D-06099 Halle (Saale)<br>Germany<br><br>Phone: +49 345 - 55 26 447<br>Fax: +49 345 - 55 27 248<br></span></p>
<div><span style="color: #949494; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Email: joachim.haendel@zns.uni-halle.de</span></div>
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<div id="GroupWiseSection_1673589762650_Joachim.Haendel@zns.uni-halle.de_659232D005F00000BEC929790EDC4731_" class="GroupWiseMessageBody"><span class="GroupwiseReplyHeader"><br>>>> Fabian Neisskenwirth <info@naturhistorische-konservierung.de> 11.01.2023, 19:58 >>><br></span>
<p>Dear James,</p>
<p>to add to Robs very good advice and Chis recommendation of the glassplate. I recommend you to use a float glass plate (at least 4mm thick) and pour some carborundum (SiC) in 80 & 180 grit, here is a austrian supplier: <br><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.mineraliengrosshandel.com/Siliciumcarbid-Schleifpulver/Siliziumkarbid-Siliziumcarbid-F-80-1-kg::489.html">http://www.mineraliengrosshandel.com/Siliciumcarbid-Schleifpulver/Siliziumkarbid-Siliziumcarbid-F-80-1-kg::489.html</a>. </p>
<p>To start to get all flattened you use the 80 grade and then go to the 180. This has the advantage that you will have full control of the jar, since you will be grinding it mechanically with your hands and not with a machine. I have had the bad experience in the past, that the lap disc literally took the jar out of my hand and crushed into pieces. It's way more work and time consuming, but if you have a steady hand, you will get at least 1-3 mm grinded down without a problem.<br>You cant use the float glass for more than 4-5 jars, since it will get uneven wile grinding it down.</p>
<p>As a seal I recommend you to use a beeswax/colophony mix (4:1) and to head the lid at 120°C in an oven. By this you will get a slight vacuum in the jar which seals it perfectly and inhibits oxidation. It was used by the old teaching aid manufacturers back in 1890's and its a great barrier for ethanol. Silicone will fail since its permeable to ethanol with the years. </p>
<p>The only thing is that doing this requires some kind of practice, so start with some tiny test jars and the go up the scale, grinding and sealing big jars is a hard task. And use new lids of at least 4 mm thickness too, these have to be grinded too of course.</p>
<p>If all fails, there is a putty called "Terostat IX": <br><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ch/de/produkt/flexible-sealants/teroson_rb_ix.html">https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ch/de/produkt/flexible-sealants/teroson_rb_ix.html</a> <br>This can be used with warm lids, so you still get the effect of the slight vacuum. Its not tested for longevity, but some colleagues have had no issues since the last 20 years. But its no conservation product, so just to get this clear ;>)</p>
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<p>All the best wishes from Switzerland,</p>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Am 11.01.23 um 16:45 schrieb Tacker, Christopher:</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:DM8PR09MB68405AA63C551719539113848BFC9@DM8PR09MB6840.namprd09.prod.outlook.com">
<div dir="auto" style="color: rgb(33, 33, 33); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">If you choose to grind them flat, the quickest and most aggressive way to do it is 120 grit on a glass plate. I even got lucky at the glass business - they had unclaimed thick glass that they just gave me. This is also fairly cheap in terms of supplies and time.</div>
<div dir="auto" style="color: rgb(33, 33, 33); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> </div>
<div dir="auto" style="color: rgb(33, 33, 33); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">You could even get some wet/dry sandpaper at a hardware store. </div>
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Chris Tacker, Ph.D., P.G.
<div dir="auto">Research Curator of Geology</div>
<div dir="auto">North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences</div>
<div dir="auto">11 West Jones St. | Raleigh, NC 27601</div>
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<div dir="auto">Emails to and from this address are subject to NC Public Records Law and may be disclosed to third parties.</div>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;"><strong>From:</strong> Nhcoll-l <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:nhcoll-l-bounces@mailman.yale.edu"><nhcoll-l-bounces@mailman.yale.edu></a> on behalf of Robert Waller <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:rw@protectheritage.com"><rw@protectheritage.com></a><br><strong>Sent:</strong> Wednesday, January 11, 2023 10:32:06 AM<br><strong>To:</strong> James Maclaine <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:j.maclaine@nhm.ac.uk"><j.maclaine@nhm.ac.uk></a>; <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:nhcoll-l@mailman.yale.edu">nhcoll-l@mailman.yale.edu</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:nhcoll-l@mailman.yale.edu"><nhcoll-l@mailman.yale.edu></a><br><strong>Subject:</strong> [External] Re: [Nhcoll-l] Putty For Sealing Jars</span>
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<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-CA">Hi James,</span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-CA">Not a complete answer, but something you might want to check on. Your mineralogy or geology prep labs might have equipment for grinding perfectly flat surfaces (for them, in advance of polishing). If so, they could quickly and easily grind your jar tops flat for you. If they don’t have the equipment then they may be able to point you to someone who does. A vibrating lap (<a href="https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://kingsleynorth.com/16-inch-covington-vibrating-lap.html__;!!HYmSToo!cYC3fw02i6vOpwFSOFOihSZnnAskFr7aSQRQFKPe4wTf_bXCK9J9zyEa81-x2ZLzL2MyX_FWil_yAo8GUzjBjquo0p_uSA$">https://kingsleynorth.com/16-inch-covington-vibrating-lap.html</a>) might be ideal but even a rotating flat lap (<a href="https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://arrowheadlapidarysupply.com/products/18-rotating-disc-flat-lap-model-18rl/2695/)*20would__;JQ!!HYmSToo!cYC3fw02i6vOpwFSOFOihSZnnAskFr7aSQRQFKPe4wTf_bXCK9J9zyEa81-x2ZLzL2MyX_FWil_yAo8GUzjBjqvgqfe_0w$">https://arrowheadlapidarysupply.com/products/18-rotating-disc-flat-lap-model-18rl/2695/)</a> would serve.</span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-CA">Whatever you choose to seal with, the a perfectly flat jar top is certain to improve the seal.</span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-CA">Rob</span></p>
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<p class="x_MsoNormal"><strong>From:</strong> Nhcoll-l <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:nhcoll-l-bounces@mailman.yale.edu"><nhcoll-l-bounces@mailman.yale.edu></a> <strong> On Behalf Of </strong>James Maclaine<br><strong>Sent:</strong> Wednesday, January 11, 2023 7:09 AM<br><strong>To:</strong> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:nhcoll-l@mailman.yale.edu">nhcoll-l@mailman.yale.edu</a><br><strong>Subject:</strong> [Nhcoll-l] Putty For Sealing Jars</p>
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<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Dear all,</span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Happy New Year!</span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Hope someone can help with a large jar sealing question. In the past we have used a kind of putty (made by Arboseal) to seal flat glass plates to the top of some of our largest jars and containers. This was especially useful in the case of some of the older jars where the top is not completely flat and the putty could fill in the gaps. It isn’t an ideal solution (and makes opening the jar a bit of a chore) and in some cases the putty has hardened and cracked but on the whole it has fairly effectively slowed down evaporation over several decades. </span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">However, in the cases where the old putty has to be replaced I can no longer find the same brand for sale online, so can anyone tell me where I can purchase something similar and reliable that I could use for this? Or ideally, let me know of a better way of sealing a flat lid on an uneven jar top (please don’t suggest stretching parafilm over it!). </span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">As these are large containers for specimens that would be difficult to find alternative storage for (see attached), I’d like to keep using them if possible. They would also be prohibitively expensive to replace.</span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Any suggestions would be much appreciated.</span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Cheers,</span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">James</span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span></p>
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