[NHCOLL-L:3872] amateur insect pest control

[Bob Glotzhober]

List Serve Members:

 

I deal a lot with amateur entomologists and also with folks at metro
parks and other parks that maintain freeze-dried study skins for
hands-on activities with the public. (We have a freeze drier, and I
prepare specimens not only for our own use, but also for parks for a
small fee - as taxidermists typically cannot or will not prepare
specimens that require special permits and don't like to deal with
"dickey birds" and other small, non-game animals.) In each case,
protecting the insects, bird or mammal study skins from pests is a
significant concern. I have come up with what seems to me to be a viable
solution, but have no "research" upon which to base this solution. I've
used my approach for nearly ten years - and it "seems" to work. I'd like
input from anyone who either is aware of any research, or knows enough
chemistry / pest control info that they can offer reasonable comment.

 

A local butterfly group has recommended moth balls to their members. I
counter that moth balls (naphthalene) are merely repellants and do not
kill eggs or larvae that may already be present. Contamination could
come from the animal before collected and preserved, or in the case of
specimens passed around, could come anytime the specimen is used with
the public and kept out of air-tight containers for even a brief period.
Therefore, it seems to me, a repellant is insufficient. Add to this the
fact that few amateurs and park naturalists have sophisticated, truly
air-tight containers available for storage, nor access to freezing to
kill pests or anoxic environments.

 

I have used and recommend short segments of flea collars - either cat or
dog flea collars. Not knowing much about the chemistry of the chemicals
used - they are advertised as killing fleas and ticks and other insects,
and yet they appear to be safe to both the pets and humans around the
pets. For pinned insects, I recommend a short (1-2 inch-long) segment
with a pin shoved through it and pinned into the base of the container.
For study skins, I recommend a similar sized piece stuck inside of a
35mm film canister that has had holes punched into it with a paper
punch. Many flea collars seem to get oily after they age, and the film
canister keeps any such oils from direct contact with the study skin,
where the oils could attract dirt and damage fur or feathers. If such
containers are placed inside an approximately air-tight container (such
as rubber-maid or other similar plastic containers), they appear to work
very well in roughly a decade of such use. I recommend folks replace the
flea collars with new ones every six months (similar to recommended use
with pets), but know that often that does not happen, and keeping them
separated in film canisters helps prevents contact with the oils that
develop on the surface after longer periods of time.

 

Does all this make sense - or are there other, perhaps long-term
concerns that I have not thought of or experienced? I have not seen an
MSDS for flea collars, perhaps I should try to obtain one. I'm eager to
hear comments from those of you who may have more knowledge of potential
benefits/problems.

 

Bob Glotzhober

 

====================

Robert C. Glotzhober             614/ 298-2054

Senior Curator, Natural History         bglotzhober at ohiohistory.org

Ohio Historical Society         Fax: 614/ 297-2546

1982 Velma Avenue

Columbus, Ohio  43211-2497

 

Visit the website of the Ohio Historical Society at:

  www.ohiohistory.org and check out our online collections catalog.

See or purchase Dragonflies and Damselflies of Ohio or the Cedar Bog
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Visit the Ohio Odonata website at:
http://www.marietta.edu/~odonata/index.html

 

 

 

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