[NHCOLL-L:3470] Re: FW: Bird mounts

Wed Jun 20 17:35:42 EDT 2007

More information on pesticides can be found at this site, including a
selected bibliography:

http://www.nmai.si.edu/subpage.cfm?subpage=collections&second=conserv&th
ird=pest

At NMAI we have also had success cleaning grimy featherwork simply by
stroking gently with polyurethane foam cosmetic sponges or upholstery
foam, followed by careful HEPA vacuuming on low suction as Victoria
describes below to remove any residual foam particles as well as other
particles.

Emily Kaplan

Conservator

Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian

Cultural Resources Center

Suitland, MD 20746

tel 301-238-1418

fax 301-238-3201

kaplane at si.edu 

________________________________

From: owner-nhcoll-l at lists.yale.edu
[mailto:owner-nhcoll-l at lists.yale.edu] On Behalf Of Victoria Book
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 4:59 PM
To: NHCOLL-L at LISTS.YALE.EDU; rpennin1 at utk.edu
Cc: shirley.albright at sos.state.nj.us
Subject: [NHCOLL-L:3469] Re: FW: Bird mounts

I agree with Rich, these are separate issues. But let's talk about both.

FIRST, check for arsenic and mercury. You don't want to risk your health
while cleaning a specimen. 

There is a lot of literature out there, and some test kits available to
test for these. Collection Forum, for example, has several articles
about pesticide residue analysis (Hawks, Williams, Odegaard, Makos are a
few names to look for). Test kits are available from the usual sources
including FisherSci, VWR Scientific, Cole Parmer, and others. If your
mount tests positive (take a few samples from different areas), you will
need to wear personal protective gear (respirator, or at least a dusk
mask, and gloves) and clean up very well. 

Second, there are several ways to clean a taxidermy bird. Always inspect
the specimen before-hand for any damage, loose feathers, etc.; document
any condition observations and take pictures. I'd do the gentlest
treatment that works and stop when it looks good enough. It is easy to
damage older specimens with an aggressive cleaning campaign. Some
treatment techniques include brush-vacuuming (as minor as it sounds,
this can make a huge visible difference), Groom/stick eraser, cleaning
powders (potato starch or document cleaning powder), steam, water (and a
cool hair dryer), and organic solvents. 

The conservation dist-list
http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/byform/mailing-lists/cdl/ has several
postings about both these issues; here are two very good posts, but
please check the dist-list for others. 

Sally Shelton:
http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/byform/mailing-lists/cdl/1996/1168.html 

Roberta Salmaso:
http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/byform/mailing-lists/cdl/1997/1470.html 

There aren't many taxidermy conservators out there, but there are
conservators who would take this on if you didn't want to try it
yourself. If you do try it yourself, please read up on the techniques
and risks. Feel free to contact me or a conservator in your area with
questions. 

If anyone has experience in this area, I'd like to hear from you. Please
contact me off list (vbook at ou.edu). 

Good Luck, 

Victoria 

Victoria Book 

Conservator 

Sam Noble Oklahoma Museum of Natural History 

University of Oklahoma 

2401 Chautauqua Avenue 

Norman, Oklahoma 73072-7029 

phone 405.325.5163 

fax 405.325.7699 

www.snomnh.ou.edu 

On Jun 20, 2007, at 10:30 AM, Shirley Albright wrote: 

	I'm forwarding this request from a colleague who could use some
advice. 

	Please respond to him AND to the list. I'm sure there are others
in 

	similar binds. 

	Shirley S. Albright 

	Assistant Curator, Natural History Collections and Exhibitions, 

	Collections Database Administrator 

	New Jersey State Museum 

	33 W. State St., 3rd floor 

	PO Box 530 

	Trenton, NJ 08625-0530 

	(Office) 609.292.6331 

	(Fax) 609.292.7636 

	-----Original Message----- 

	From: Registrars Committee of the AAM
[mailto:RCAAM at SI-LISTSERV.SI.EDU] 

	On Behalf Of rpennin1 

	Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 11:09 AM 

	To: RCAAM at SI-LISTSERV.SI.EDU 

	Subject: Re: Bird mounts 

	Thank you Shirley, 

	I am dealing with something more than just dust. Needs deeper
cleaning. 

	The 

	mounts are old. I don't know how to test for arsnic and we are
probably 

	at 

	least two states away from a taxidermy consrvator. 

	Thanks for your response, 

	Bob 

	===== Original Message From Registrars Committee of the AAM 

	<RCAAM at SI-LISTSERV.SI.EDU> ===== 

		Bob, 

		Are you dealing with dust on the feathers or something
else? Is it 

		surface cleaning that is needed or something deeper? A
lot of museums 

		have allowed guests to touch taxidermy mounts in the
past before the 

		arsenic/mercuric salt issue was brought to the
foreground. So, you may 

		need to know a little bit about how your taxidermy mount
was used. 

		I would suggest working with a skilled taxidermy
conservator if you 

	have 

		one in your area. 

		Shirley S. Albright 

		Assistant Curator, Natural History Collections and
Exhibitions, 

		Collections Database Administrator 

		New Jersey State Museum 

		33 W. State St., 3rd floor 

		PO Box 530 

		Trenton, NJ 08625-0530 

		(Office) 609.292.6331 

		(Fax) 609.292.7636 

		-----Original Message----- 

		From: Registrars Committee of the AAM
[mailto:RCAAM at SI-LISTSERV.SI.EDU] 

		On Behalf Of rpennin1 

		Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 9:33 AM 

		To: RCAAM at SI-LISTSERV.SI.EDU 

		Subject: Bird mounts 

		Hey, 

		Can any one tell me or point me in the right direction
for cleaning the 

		feathers on taxidermied bird mounts? 

		I would be greatful for any help.... 

		Bob 

		Robert Pennington, Registrar 

		The Frank H. McClung Museum 

		The University of Tennessee 

		1327 Circle Park Drive 

		Knoxville, TN 37996-3200 

		865-974-6384/865-974-3827 FAX 

	Robert Pennington, Registrar 

	The Frank H. McClung Museum 

	The University of Tennessee 

	1327 Circle Park Drive 

	Knoxville, TN 37996-3200 

	865-974-6384/865-974-3827 FAX 

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