[NHCOLL-L:3878] RE: amateur insect pest control

[Rachael Arenstein]

Bob,
 
Below are some links that I found helpful when trying to convince an institution that I'm working with that mothballs are not an effective pest management strategy.  Aside from the issue of efficacy is the issue of safety and, as I think these resources make clear, the use of both older napthalene and newer paradicolorbenzene mothballs poses a significant safety hazard that would best be avoided.   
 
http://npic.orst.edu/hottopic/mothball/regulation.html
 
http://www.epa.gov/kidshometour/products/moth.htm
 
http://www.epa.gov/opp00001/health/illegalproducts/index.htm
 
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0439.html
 
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ipcsneng/neng0667.html
 
I can't address some of your other questions directly but thought that I would mention that there are a lot of great resources on the www.museumpests.net website.  Of particular interest would be the PestList e-mail list where your e-mail might reach additional colleagues with specialized experience.  People always want a quick, easy and failsafe approach but in your work it would be terrific if you can introduce the basics of integrated pest management which can be practiced even by individuals and small institutions.  
 
Best,
Rachael
 
Rachael Perkins Arenstein
IPM Working Group Secretary
rachael at arensteinconservation.com
 
 
 


Subject: [NHCOLL-L:3872] amateur insect pest controlDate: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 07:40:00 -0400From: bglotzhober at OHIOHISTORY.ORGTo: nhcoll-l at lists.yale.edu






List Serve Members:
 
I deal a lot with amateur entomologists and also with folks at metro parks and other parks that maintain freeze-dried study skins for hands-on activities with the public. (We have a freeze drier, and I prepare specimens not only for our own use, but also for parks for a small fee – as taxidermists typically cannot or will not prepare specimens that require special permits and don’t like to deal with “dickey birds” and other small, non-game animals.) In each case, protecting the insects, bird or mammal study skins from pests is a significant concern. I have come up with what seems to me to be a viable solution, but have no “research” upon which to base this solution. I’ve used my approach for nearly ten years – and it “seems” to work. I’d like input from anyone who either is aware of any research, or knows enough chemistry / pest control info that they can offer reasonable comment.
 
A local butterfly group has recommended moth balls to their members. I counter that moth balls (naphthalene) are merely repellants and do not kill eggs or larvae that may already be present. Contamination could come from the animal before collected and preserved, or in the case of specimens passed around, could come anytime the specimen is used with the public and kept out of air-tight containers for even a brief period. Therefore, it seems to me, a repellant is insufficient. Add to this the fact that few amateurs and park naturalists have sophisticated, truly air-tight containers available for storage, nor access to freezing to kill pests or anoxic environments.
 
I have used and recommend short segments of flea collars – either cat or dog flea collars. Not knowing much about the chemistry of the chemicals used – they are advertised as killing fleas and ticks and other insects, and yet they appear to be safe to both the pets and humans around the pets. For pinned insects, I recommend a short (1-2 inch-long) segment with a pin shoved through it and pinned into the base of the container. For study skins, I recommend a similar sized piece stuck inside of a 35mm film canister that has had holes punched into it with a paper punch. Many flea collars seem to get oily after they age, and the film canister keeps any such oils from direct contact with the study skin, where the oils could attract dirt and damage fur or feathers. If such containers are placed inside an approximately air-tight container (such as rubber-maid or other similar plastic containers), they appear to work very well in roughly a decade of such use. I recommend folks replace the flea collars with new ones every six months (similar to recommended use with pets), but know that often that does not happen, and keeping them separated in film canisters helps prevents contact with the oils that develop on the surface after longer periods of time.
 
Does all this make sense – or are there other, perhaps long-term concerns that I have not thought of or experienced? I have not seen an MSDS for flea collars, perhaps I should try to obtain one. I’m eager to hear comments from those of you who may have more knowledge of potential benefits/problems.
 
Bob Glotzhober
 
====================
Robert C. Glotzhober             614/ 298-2054
Senior Curator, Natural History         bglotzhober at ohiohistory.org
Ohio Historical Society         Fax: 614/ 297-2546
1982 Velma Avenue
Columbus, Ohio  43211-2497
 
Visit the website of the Ohio Historical Society at:
  www.ohiohistory.org and check out our online collections catalog.
See or purchase Dragonflies and Damselflies of Ohio or the Cedar Bog Symposium II at OHS's new E-Store:  http://www.ohiohistorystore.com/ 
Visit the Ohio Odonata website at:  http://www.marietta.edu/~odonata/index.html
 
 
 
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